Toraba Collectors' Forum > Restoration > Restoration Hints > Odoshi (Re-Loaded)
Topic: Odoshi (Re-Loaded) - 4 replies
Posts 1 to 5 of 5
Original Message Post # 1
Thu 15th Apr 2010 19:42
Redux
The problem with armour restoration is that there is really not many people willing or knowledgeable to train you. There is a fear that one's profession will be dominated by clones and that there is an army of unscrupulous evil dealers out there just waiting to bodge things up if you show them how. Well the later reference to dealers may be holding some truth, and from experience I witnessed some awful attempts to “fix” things up. Putting that aside I would like to post some help and tips for the budding amateur restorer. Restoration is expensive and is out of the reach of most people, if these pages help you save costs and get your armour looking suitable for display, then its a good job done. If you are looking to use this as a text to start up professionally forget it, I will omit a number of key processes on purpose to hamper this, after all it's how I make my living.
The problem with armour restoration is that there is really not many people willing or knowledgeable to train you. There is a fear that one's profession will be dominated by clones and that there is an army of unscrupulous evil dealers out there just waiting to bodge things up if you show them how. Well the later reference to dealers may be holding some truth, and from experience I witnessed some awful attempts to “fix” things up. Putting that aside I would like to post some help and tips for the budding amateur restorer. Restoration is expensive and is out of the reach of most people, if these pages help you save costs and get your armour looking suitable for display, then its a good job done. If you are looking to use this as a text to start up professionally forget it, I will omit a number of key processes on purpose to hamper this, after all it's how I make my living.
Please be very aware that it's very easy to screw things up and there are a number of tricks that only become apparent after you have invested a large amount of time in a project. I've had the good fortune of being able to handle hundreds of armours, pull many to bits for investigation and research, rebuild, restore, and yes, completely ruin a few in the early days as well.
The first series of tips that I'm posting are about lacing. I never gave lacing a second thought until I came to do it. I would recommend that you use a sample piece to practise on first. Just cut out a metal sheet of thick slice of cardboard. Real old armour can fall apart the more you play with it. Don't say I didn't warn ya!
If you are thinking of doing one yourself and would like some help, please feel free to drop me a line. I'm always happy to help genuine people.
PM
Quote
ReplyLesson 1
Making a point
This is one method that works for us, its very similar to the original way points were made years back with rice glue and Urushi, yet quicker!
A) Standard braid
Most ends look like this unless you tape first and cut them after wards.
B) Glue pressed into both sides and pulled
A quick tack PVA (White Glue) clothing glue is applied to both sides of the braid. This is then squeezed into the braid and pulled out towards the cut end. The glue takes around 10mins to dry so you will have to move quickly.
C) Glued end cut into shape
As soon as the glue is applied the braid will stiffen and retain the shape you have pulled it into. With some sharp scissors cut off the corners to make a point. Leave some space at the end for the next stage.
D) Cut end shaped and glued
The PVA should be drying by now, before this has fully cured apply some fast drying PVA wood glue to both sides. Roll the end between you index finger and thumb twisting the point into shape. The ends should pull in and form a crease on one side. This side will become the reverse side for lacing. Push the crease down to flatten it as much as possible. Let the wood glue dry overnight. This will provide you with a strong slightly flexible point to work with.
If you are using the Sugake style make sure that both ends are the same with the crease on the same side!
Making a point
This is one method that works for us, its very similar to the original way points were made years back with rice glue and Urushi, yet quicker!
A) Standard braid
Most ends look like this unless you tape first and cut them after wards.
B) Glue pressed into both sides and pulled
A quick tack PVA (White Glue) clothing glue is applied to both sides of the braid. This is then squeezed into the braid and pulled out towards the cut end. The glue takes around 10mins to dry so you will have to move quickly.
C) Glued end cut into shape
As soon as the glue is applied the braid will stiffen and retain the shape you have pulled it into. With some sharp scissors cut off the corners to make a point. Leave some space at the end for the next stage.
D) Cut end shaped and glued
The PVA should be drying by now, before this has fully cured apply some fast drying PVA wood glue to both sides. Roll the end between you index finger and thumb twisting the point into shape. The ends should pull in and form a crease on one side. This side will become the reverse side for lacing. Push the crease down to flatten it as much as possible. Let the wood glue dry overnight. This will provide you with a strong slightly flexible point to work with.
If you are using the Sugake style make sure that both ends are the same with the crease on the same side!
Lesson 2
Finishing knots
This is a quick guide on how to finish off a cut end and make an acceptable knot.
1) This is a rough end which could be avoided by using some tape between each cut.
2) A very small amount of PVA (clothing hi tack) is spread around and inside the frayed end to gain some control of the shape.
3) The frayed edge is then cut down to around 5-6mm
4) Another small amount of PVA is applied to the frayed end. The end is then twisted and folded under itself, which resembles a small mushroom or rivet head. Ensure that the "head" is slightly bigger that the lacing hole!
Finishing knots
This is a quick guide on how to finish off a cut end and make an acceptable knot.
1) This is a rough end which could be avoided by using some tape between each cut.
2) A very small amount of PVA (clothing hi tack) is spread around and inside the frayed end to gain some control of the shape.
3) The frayed edge is then cut down to around 5-6mm
4) Another small amount of PVA is applied to the frayed end. The end is then twisted and folded under itself, which resembles a small mushroom or rivet head. Ensure that the "head" is slightly bigger that the lacing hole!
Lesson 3
Kebiki Odoshi
This is a really intended to complement Anthony J. Bryant's excellent guide to lacing. This can be found at the following location:http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.ch05.html
Lacing is not just "lacing", and like most Japanese processes it requires some talent and lots of practice! A bad job will stand out a mile, and will turn most knowledgeable connoisseurs away from viewing restored armour. If you have the funds our advise is to commission the lacing job and save yourself the trouble! The photo (below) is of a Gessan section that has been re-lacquered and is undergoing a fresh lacing. You may notice that the Mimi-ito has been used to set the spacing between the lames. Also the lower knots are very flat in appearance. The crosses should almost appear as squares if laced correctly.
The main rule of getting the right finish is to ensure that the braid is facing in the right direction.
When you are pulling the braid through the holes a crease will form, make sure that the crease is always towards the rear. Should the crease change mid way just pinch the braid in the right orientation and continue to pull and guide it through the hole, it will correct itself. Each time the braid is pulled through a hole squash the braid with your thumb and pull it through the next hole gently, keep the braid flat and held in place with your thumb. You may need to twist the braid to maintain the crease direction.
The above photo shows two braid sections, the one on the left has been pulled and squashed correctly. The one on the right has been pulled through to tightly and has the wrong shape. The photo (below) shows the reverse side of the plate, the braid has been squashed into shape with the crease towards the rear. The braid on the left has been pulled too tight.
As you can imagine this is a time consuming process, with a standard Shikoro sporting around 3-4 thousand holes, just one incorrect section will ruin the total job. Take your time and undertake just one section per day. The job will then look unrushed and your patience with remain intake. You may also want to use a barrier cream on your figures, silk lacing will strip the outer layers of you skin providing you with peeling dry digits!
Kebiki Odoshi
This is a really intended to complement Anthony J. Bryant's excellent guide to lacing. This can be found at the following location:http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.ch05.html
Lacing is not just "lacing", and like most Japanese processes it requires some talent and lots of practice! A bad job will stand out a mile, and will turn most knowledgeable connoisseurs away from viewing restored armour. If you have the funds our advise is to commission the lacing job and save yourself the trouble! The photo (below) is of a Gessan section that has been re-lacquered and is undergoing a fresh lacing. You may notice that the Mimi-ito has been used to set the spacing between the lames. Also the lower knots are very flat in appearance. The crosses should almost appear as squares if laced correctly.
The main rule of getting the right finish is to ensure that the braid is facing in the right direction.
When you are pulling the braid through the holes a crease will form, make sure that the crease is always towards the rear. Should the crease change mid way just pinch the braid in the right orientation and continue to pull and guide it through the hole, it will correct itself. Each time the braid is pulled through a hole squash the braid with your thumb and pull it through the next hole gently, keep the braid flat and held in place with your thumb. You may need to twist the braid to maintain the crease direction.
The above photo shows two braid sections, the one on the left has been pulled and squashed correctly. The one on the right has been pulled through to tightly and has the wrong shape. The photo (below) shows the reverse side of the plate, the braid has been squashed into shape with the crease towards the rear. The braid on the left has been pulled too tight.
As you can imagine this is a time consuming process, with a standard Shikoro sporting around 3-4 thousand holes, just one incorrect section will ruin the total job. Take your time and undertake just one section per day. The job will then look unrushed and your patience with remain intake. You may also want to use a barrier cream on your figures, silk lacing will strip the outer layers of you skin providing you with peeling dry digits!
Nice one Fudo, this is great info back to it's former gloy pics & all thank you,
The impossible we can acheive, miracles do take a little longer
Posts 1 to 5 of 5There are 10 active users currently on the forum: 10 guests
